Personal Talk With Andre TAN

Monday, everybody celebrating and having a rest, but my friend Andre Tan  have worked in his studio since early morning. I have decided to take an chance and to visit him, to talk about fashion, the Ukrainian designers, creative plans and, of course, to try on his beautiful dresses.

Me: Andre, and when will be your show?

Andre: OnMarch 18th. By the way, I invite you on my event about my first man’s collection. I will be very glad to see you.

Me: Sure, I will be. I remember your first collection, there were many man’s and sports accents. By the wat I took a part in that show?

Andre: You were on my runaway in 2008, it was another show.

Me: We have a lot of good memories. Let’s remember how your career has begun. At one time you worked in Kharkiv if I am not mistaken.

Andre: Well, if to return to sources of my work as the designer, then, perhaps, I will begin with the fact that I have arrived to Kiev in the 2003rd year. At that time I have won a competition of young designers thanks to my collection “Look From the Outside”. Now hardly anyone will remember her, but it is that collection which, so to say, has forced to start all secular Kiev and domestic fashion-business. This collection has dreamed me at night, the color palette consisted only of white. I by the way can show you photos, they are absent at all any more anywhere. At that time she considerably differed from displays of other designers. Models had a “polaroid” eye on a face, and along a podium children in a pose of a lotus sat and meditated. The main message of a collection was in the statement that watch us from above. At the very beginning of show there was a guy, he held a shirt with a big inscription in hand: “Watch us from above”. As a part of jury of a competition there was David Fouli, after display he had no doubts into my account, he has told: “Only this guy deserves on the first place”.

Me: And before conquering the capital where you created?

Andre: To this competition I had the studio in Kharkiv. Already then I sheathed all, so to speak, local nobility, I was the most popular designer in this city. But after a victory at a competition, before me improbable prospects in Kiev have opened. Only present: in the capital I, in fact, am known to nobody, but “the New Channel” contacts me and offers a position of the chief stylist. Paid for it ridiculous money, but what the horizons in a profession opened!

Me: Here is how you have decided to give up excellent work in the hometown and to move to the megalopolis where nobody knows you? It is big risk …

Andre: You won’t believe, I have agreed, without deliberating. I have closed studio in Kharkiv in one afternoon and I have finally moved to Kiev. I remember, my friends twisted a finger at a temple, they have been convinced, as won’t pass month as I will return back. Generally, then nobody has supported me, but I have all the same made as I considered it necessary. I have risked, and now I am not sorry at all.

Me: Designers always are in search of inspiration. And who for you was an example from the feshn-industry?

Andre: To tell the truth, the main impact on my works was exerted by the Belgian designers. You remembers my collection “Hero of Our Time”? Here is how time you participated in her. She has turned back a turning point in my work. I understood clearly that a concept it, of course, abruptly, but the clothes have to be on sale and the main objective of clothes is in that people carried her. She has to be qualitative, comfortable and convenient. The advice of the friends of Stas Yankelevsky and Sonya Zabugi has helped to take the correct reference point to me. They have told at once: “You need to think up the direction. Try to head for “smart couture”. So, since 2005 I have begun to develop in this path. And now I am inspired by Nicolas Gascier. In whatever House he worked, I always like his works. Ricardo Tisha, he is in general my guru. For me he is a workaholic from capital letter, people who skillfully compiles all latest tendencies and at him it turns out not as at the others. Still very much I love Albert Elbaz, now, unfortunately, he isn’t destiny. I was put on that he will be invited in Dior, but it hasn’t developed.

Me: It seems to me, Dior and Albert is not compatible things. Perhaps and to the best that he hasn’t passed into Dior.

Andre: Oh, I have remembered. Still I like Edie Sliman, in due time he has made the real revolution in the world of fashion. For me Edie is the innovator who is able to dictate the rules. When all walked in pink dresses, he has told that it is necessary to resemble the man – to walk in trousers and to smoke cigars. And all have obeyed him.

Me: Well, about your long way of the designer I know everything now. Now tell about academy. How there was such idea? You are the only designer in Ukraine who has the academy of design!

Andre: Oh, the academy is only the beginning, we have so many projects in plans, and all of them will already work this year. You will be surprised to scope of our idea of J

Me: Oh, tell, don’t hold an intrigue.

Andre: I can’t tell anything yet. I am a supporter of what in the beginning needs to be done then to speak.

Me: All right, then let’s return to a question of academy.

Andre: The idea to create it has arisen at me six years ago. It has turned out so that I couldn’t find qualitative stylists and cutters. These are endangered professions, all want to study as the designer, but nobody wants to become the technologist, the tailor or the cutter. I have understood that if now itself I don’t begin to grow up these shots, then years through the 10th this niche “will just die”.

Me: Oh, now I know to whom to go if I want to learn to sew dresses 🙂

Andre: By the way, among my students there are many models. Therefore if you will decide – you will have a cheerful company. Lisa Yurusheva goes to my classes, for example. In general, we train about 200 people a month, we have many groups. And Sonya Zabuga, Irina Danilevskaya, Inga Vishnevskaya teach at me. We have a serious approach to personnel training.

Me: What at you still interesting occurs in work?

Andre: From interesting, perhaps, the fact that we have now started the line of panty hoses, the line of bed linen and clothes for the house.

Me: By the way, this niche in Ukraine is empty. Therefore the idea very successful will also surely bring success.

Andre: Yes, the truth, we were started only few weeks ago, meanwhile I don’t undertake to speak about that, how are you will go further.

Me: Listen how many at you news, you don’t sit in place!

Andre: But my main news is that 15 years later I, at last, have decided to dress men. The ATAN MAN line, her target audience – startups and businessmen of new generation at the age of 28-45 years. I will dress men for whom the extremely fashionable design and comfort are actual.

Me: What will be in collections? Strict three-piece suits?

Andre: It is the whole mix of styles, both shirts, and bumpers, jeans, cardigans, and also cashmere sweaters, t-shirts from merserizovanny cotton. This material, by the way, most often is used by fashionable houses of Brioni, Hermes, Ermenegildo Zegna.

Me: And how you look at this new current which has appeared at us in Ukraine – tailoring of individual clothes?

Andre: In general, it is a global trend around the world because personalisation at full speed develops. To take for example world brands, they have reduced the budget by outdoor advertizing, and have concentrated on an individual approach to the client. You have noticed, nobody wants to go “under a stamp now”, all want to carry what others don’t have. In general the fashion has stopped being art, now it is pure business. As sad to recognize it, but it is the fact.

 

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2017-04-21T18:06:22+00:00March 9, 2016|Personal Talk|

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